Philadelphia - Day Tripper Guide
# 078-Ben Franklin Parkway, Day Tripper Self-Guided Tour
Ben Franklin Parkway is a beautiful, multi-lane, and tree-lined boulevard that runs through the city's cultural heart. Lined by the flags of nations from around the world, it is situated between the Philadelphia Art Museum at 2600 Ben Franklin Parkway and City Hall at Broad and Market Streets. Construction on the Parkway began in 1917 when French landscape architect Jacques Gréber designed the Parkway to emulate the Champs-Élysées in Paris. The Parkway has been the site of major celebrations, from Pope Frances conducting Mass for a million followers to the Eagles Super Bowl celebration, parades, concerts, Super Sundays, and the NFL Draft. A trip on the Parkway takes you by the cathedral, at least five museums, plus many fountains, parks, and sports facilities. It is also an outdoor sculpture garden with 52 sculptures. Add 14 more if you walk along Kelly Drive. “Philadelphia Outdoor Art: A Walking Tour” by Roslyn F Brenner is a fantastic guide and description of all of them
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This is what you, your friends and family might want to do; rent bicycles!
Although city bicycling is considered dangerous by many novice riders and folks who haven’t been on a bike for a while, the Parkway and its surrounding bike trails are easily navigated and level. The ones along the river are entirely separate from vehicular traffic, and the outer bicycle lanes on the Parkway seem relatively safe. I wouldn’t suggest riding around City Hall if you’re uncomfortable with the traffic. And I might not do this on the busy and sometimes narrow streets of my other neighborhood tours, but this one would work. Wheel Fun Rentals Boathouse Row is a great bicycle rental shop on Kelly Drive, behind the Art Museum at Boathouse Row. It is a perfect spot to base your tour. A small lot is just a few feet away behind the art museum and groups of spaces along Kelly Drive. |
If this doesn’t work for you, anywhere on the parkway is a good start for a loop. For bike purposes, I’ll list the sites starting behind the Art Museum.
Fairmount Park, Kelly Drive, is one of the gateways to this urban wonder. The system is 9,200 acres and includes 63 different connecting parks. It is five times bigger than NYC’s Central Park, making it the largest urban park in the nation.
The Fairmount Waterworks is behind the museum, along with more fountains, parks, sculptures, and paths through the garden and along the banks of the river. The old pumping facility, designed to look like a Greek temple, supplied the city with water from 1812 to 1909.
Boathouse Row - This iconic grouping of private boat clubs on the east bank of the Schuylkill just north of the Water Works is the birthplace of rowing in America. Lit up at night, it has become one of the most photographed sites in the city. It sits on Kelly Drive, named after a famous Philadelphia Olympic oarsman, John B. Kelly Jr., the elder brother of Grace Kelly, the actress and Princess of Monaco.
Kelly Dive on the eastern side of the river, and Martin Luther King Drive, on the western side, provide a 9-mile loop for driving, biking, or walking. It also connects with the Schuylkill River Trail, a 26-mile paved trail that runs from Bartram’s Garden in southwest Philadelphia all the way up the river to King of Prussia
Boathouse Row - This iconic grouping of private boat clubs on the east bank of the Schuylkill just north of the Water Works is the birthplace of rowing in America. Lit up at night, it has become one of the most photographed sites in the city. It sits on Kelly Drive, named after a famous Philadelphia Olympic oarsman, John B. Kelly Jr., the elder brother of Grace Kelly, the actress and Princess of Monaco.
Kelly Dive on the eastern side of the river, and Martin Luther King Drive, on the western side, provide a 9-mile loop for driving, biking, or walking. It also connects with the Schuylkill River Trail, a 26-mile paved trail that runs from Bartram’s Garden in southwest Philadelphia all the way up the river to King of Prussia
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is one of the "bookends” of the Ben Franklin Parkway. It is surrounded by a beautiful area of paths, gazebos, lawns, fountains, and sculptures alongside the Schuylkill River. The museum holds over 240,000 artifacts, objects, and works of art, including everything from sculpture and paintings to armor, decorative arts, and entire rooms meant to evoke other times, civilizations, and parts of the world. With ample space and a high visitor count, the museum is among the world's largest and most visited museums.
Of course, the best view of this building is from the front, so walk or bike around to that location to see its grandeur.
The museum building is styled on classical Greek temples, with columns and bronze griffins adorning the exterior, fronted by the steps. The STEPS!! The steps that Rocky ran up. Go ahead and do it; everybody does. Run up the steps and jump around at the top, pumping your arms in the air and looking down the Parkway toward City Hall. It’s a magnificent view of Philadelphia, so after you catch your breath, be sure to take a photo from there. The steps are worth the trip even if you don’t enter the museum.
Rocky Statue, is off to the right as you look at the steps. There is usually a short wait in line there to take the photo. Rocky was moved away from the museum to outside the Spectrum, because the board didn’t feel it deserved to be there. But it was such a big draw they were convinced to move Mr. Balboa back to his rightful place.
The Oval - Right at the Rocky Statue is the pedestrian crosswalk leading you safely across this busy street to Eakins Oval. This spot has three fountains, one being the Washington Monument Fountain. George is up there on top of the fountain on his horse, surrounded by indigenous animals and peoples of our nation.
When I am walking the Parkway, I sometimes wonder why I bother to visit the fountains and statues of cities like Rome and Paris when I have all of this in my backyard.
When I am walking the Parkway, I sometimes wonder why I bother to visit the fountains and statues of cities like Rome and Paris when I have all of this in my backyard.
Rodin Museum, 2151 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy Start your journey up the Parkway towards City Hall in the distance. TIP: It’s fun for a family to try to name the international flags as you see them along the way. You will find the Rodin Museum on the left/north side of the Parkway, .04 mile from the Oval. It is surrounded by a lovely garden with eight sculptures on display, including The Thinker and The Gates of Hell. It opened in 1929, but the Philadelphia collection started in 1876 when Rodin sent eight of his sculptures over for the Centennial Celebrations held in Fairmount Park. He sculpted a universe of great passion and tragedy.
The Barnes Foundation is located across 21st Street on the Parkway and is known worldwide for its impressive art collection. The collection was previously housed in the Barnes home in Upper Merion, PA, but was later moved to this new $200 million facility after several legal battles. The collection comprises numerous works of art, including 181 Renoirs. The display rooms are presented in the same manner as they were at the original site. This new $200 million facility. It contains many works of art, including 181 Renoirs. The display rooms are all presented as they were at the original site.
The Barnes Foundation (Art Gallery)
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The Franklin Institute (Science Museum)
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Franklin Institute, 271 North 21st Street, is right across the Parkway. Of all Ben’s accomplishments, he probably would have chosen science as his favorite. As you walk into the massive rotunda, you’ll see the giant figure of Ben himself, a 2 0-foot-high, 30-ton marble statue sitting on a 92-ton pedestal.
The Institute has exhibits on industry, space, geology, physics, optics, electrical, medicine, and more. The famous Planetarium points out the universe and has different daily presentations. There is a heart you can walk through and a locomotive you can climb up and stand at the controls. There are lots of hands-on experiments and timely lectures. They always have great temporary traveling exhibits, too.
Note: In the hall of machinery is the “Automaton” of Jaquet-Droz, which influenced the original writing for the Scorsese movie Hugo.
The Institute has exhibits on industry, space, geology, physics, optics, electrical, medicine, and more. The famous Planetarium points out the universe and has different daily presentations. There is a heart you can walk through and a locomotive you can climb up and stand at the controls. There are lots of hands-on experiments and timely lectures. They always have great temporary traveling exhibits, too.
Note: In the hall of machinery is the “Automaton” of Jaquet-Droz, which influenced the original writing for the Scorsese movie Hugo.
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The Academy of Natural Sciences, 1900 Ben Franklin Pkwy. The Academy is the oldest natural science museum in America. It was founded in 1812 and contains all kinds of animals, from elephants and tigers to lions and bears. It also displays regions throughout the world and their indigenous animals. The first floor features dinosaurs, and the top floor features hands-on animal and insect demonstrations. I’ve taken all of my grandchildren there, one at a time, for their first museum experience. |
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Logan Square has a traffic circle with gardens and a fountain across the street. Locals call it Logan Circle, and it has often been a meeting place before venturing downtown. In the center is Swan Memorial Fountain, an iconic spot where traditionally, on the last day of school, the John W Hallahan Catholic School girls end their school year by taking a plunge into it. The circle is surrounded by green spaces, Sister Cities Park, and Aviators Park, with a play area, monuments, sculptures, and benches.
Logan Square has a traffic circle with gardens and a fountain across the street. Locals call it Logan Circle, and it has often been a meeting place before venturing downtown. In the center is Swan Memorial Fountain, an iconic spot where traditionally, on the last day of school, the John W Hallahan Catholic School girls end their school year by taking a plunge into it. The circle is surrounded by green spaces, Sister Cities Park, and Aviators Park, with a play area, monuments, sculptures, and benches.
*Tip for fathers of teenage boys: If you stand on the southeast corner of the park at 18th and Race St and look at the statue of William Penn on the top of City Hall, the scroll he is holding looks like something altogether different. Maybe that's why they called him Willie.
*Tip for fathers of teenage boys: If you stand on the southeast corner of the park at 18th and Race St and look at the statue of William Penn on the top of City Hall, the scroll he is holding looks like something altogether different. Maybe that's why they called him Willie.
The Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul is just across the street. You may find, as I do, that the exterior of the cathedral is not a standard representation of the typical Cathedral. The design is said to have been influenced by the anti-Catholic sentiment in Philadelphia at the time of its construction. While other cathedrals around the world had large windows or light sources, this one reflects an architectural response to extreme prejudice. However, the interior is beautiful, and the solitude feels real.
Love Park is on the Parkway across the street. Make sure to take a photo next to the LOVE sculpture.
The Philadelphia Visitors Center is also there. In the winter, a Christmas Market fills the square.
Thomas Pain Plaza in front of the Municipal Servies Building has a newly constructed and sanctioned skateboard plaza, referred to by skaters as "the new Muni". May be a fun place for the kids to watch the tricks.
The Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul is just across the street. You may find, as I do, that the exterior of the cathedral is not a standard representation of the typical Cathedral. The design is said to have been influenced by the anti-Catholic sentiment in Philadelphia at the time of its construction. While other cathedrals around the world had large windows or light sources, this one reflects an architectural response to extreme prejudice. However, the interior is beautiful, and the solitude feels real.
Love Park is on the Parkway across the street. Make sure to take a photo next to the LOVE sculpture.
The Philadelphia Visitors Center is also there. In the winter, a Christmas Market fills the square.
Thomas Pain Plaza in front of the Municipal Servies Building has a newly constructed and sanctioned skateboard plaza, referred to by skaters as "the new Muni". May be a fun place for the kids to watch the tricks.
Philadelphia City Hall, Start there and take a walk through the courtyard. There are a ton of sculptures inside and out. Tours are offered, and you can take an elevator to the base of the William Penn statue to enjoy a great view.
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Well that ends the Parkway Tour. I hope you find it helpful and you go to phillytown76.com and order some of our shirts to remember your time here.
Hotels near the Parkway, most of them are back at Logan Square:
- The Logan Philadelphia Curio Collection By Hilton 1 Logan Square
- The Windsor Suites 1700 Ben Franklin Parkway
- Embassy Suites by Hilton 1776 Ben Franklin Parkway
- Sheraton Philadelphia Downtown 201 North 17th St
Restaurants near the Parkway, there’s a cool strip just off the Parkway on Callowhill Street between 18th & 19th Streets.
- Ben’s favorite: The Kite and Key 1836 Callowhill St
- Doma Japanese 1822 Callowhill St
- Sabrina’s Cafe 1804 Callowhill St
- City Tap House Logan Sq. 2 Logan Square
- Con Murphy’s Irish Pub in Embassy Suites 1776 Ben Franklin Parkway
- Urban Farmer Philadelphia 1850 Ben Franklin Parkway